The Dead Zone: Salton Sea

I like going to places and photographing areas that most wouldn't consider, the "non tourist" traps so to speak, places that will give me something interesting to photograph, learn and write about, so when I found out about Salton Sea it was added to the list. 

Salton Sea is located about 2hours outside of LA, although we drove from San Diego along the Mexican border and up to it (also around 2 hours). It is America's largest inland sea, is 226 ft. below sea level and its surface area is 362 square miles. It was created over the course of 18 months when the Colorado River burst and flooded the area, but that is not what makes this place so interesting to me. 

During the 1950's and 60's the area became a tourist hotspot, "a miracle in the desert", it was coined as being the new Palm Springs with beaches. Naturally real estate boomed and motels sprang up as half a million people flocked to the area per annum. Land was being traded at ridiculous prices, often without even being seen. The Beach Boys, Jerry Lee Lewis and the Marx Brothers were frequent visitors to the Northern Marina, but the bubble was to burst.

Much of Salton Sea feels apocalyptic in nature. Areas of residence, crumbling, abandoned and melting into the ground. The sea, now a murky colour that washes dead fish up on to the shores, the sand isn't sand, its fish bones and barnacles, if the heat doesn't hit you, the smell will! The stench is extraordinarily bad and there are camper vans, old sofa's clothes, TV's, piles of fridges, all smashed up beyond repair all disappearing into the hard, "bouncy" mud crust you walk on. And what caused all this? There seems to be many theories; the mixture of agricultural land run off and salt, a deadly combination of toxins that polluted the water with algae seems to be the most prudent. And then the floods came, much of the shoreline was left devastated; gas stations vanished into the sea, buildings crumbled, people and wildlife fled. 

We only managed to get around an area called "Bombay Beach" (on the Eastern Shore) after 2 hours of walking round, through, between the buildings that remain, time was slipping by fast before we needed to take the 2 hour drive back to LA, Salton Sea requires a lot more time. However bad this area seems to us, people are still living here. In amongst the ruins, the unbearable heat and smell, there is a small community. While I shoot an abandoned caravan a guy watches on from his above ground "dipping/swimming pool", some gent rides his disabled motor cart down the empty, dust riddled streets, while on the beach a music video is being shot, it is a fascinating place.

I believe the South Shore was a military base, although from various sources, I now read it occupies a lot of people who want to "vanish" and live peaceful lives away from the hustle of city life: it has been dubbed "Slab City" and hosts an abundance of rather interestingly painted rocks! Happily the Northern Point looks like it is fairing much better than Bombay Beach. Wildlife and plantation is in abundance, a National Park occupies a large part with various hiking trails, beaches and RV parks-it has become an important wildlife spot for migrating birds. It has been cleaned up considerably and looks as if investment is going back into this area although there are still a few abandoned sites along the way. 

If you are looking for something a little off the beaten track, aren't worried about bad smells, intense heat and abandoned buildings than this is the place for you. It's almost Route 66 in nature, slightly sad, very interesting, deserves to be rescued/preserved and is part of the great American History.

Below is a selection of shots from Bombay Beach.

San Fran: A Seaplane Adventure

Earlier this year in Chicago, a couple of my photos from the Hancock Observatory got noticed by a local helicopter tour company on Twitter, and they generously offered to take me out in exchange for a set of shots. It was an unexpected and welcome surprise to the first month in America. Sadly the only available time was the day I was due to leave for San Francisco with my non-refundable Amtrak train ticket, so we had to pass, but it made me think!

My interest in Aerial photography peaked when I saw photographer Jason Hawke's work over London, he is a phenomenal aerial photographer, if you've seen an advert of the UK from above, he probably shot it. Add to that my interest in Architectural photography it was inevitable I was going to give it a try at some point, which leads us right back to San Francisco. 

The San Francisco coastline is a veritable fest of beauty for a photographer, from the financial district to the Gate, Marin County and of course the islands that sit in the bay itself. The city lends well to fly overs and tour companies. Initially I set about trying to find a helicopter company that would do "doors off" (a helicopter flight with no doors so the photographer can lean out unrestricted of glass) and also wouldn't mind a blog written about the experience, that wasn't to be and interest was met with "sniffy" replies. While I was searching around for another company, my girlfriend had started researching and came across a Seaplane company called: Seaplane Adventures. Not being sure if it would be possible to shoot from a plane I sent them an email and hit the web for more details.

Aaron the company director promptly got in touch, answering all questions I had. It would seem that seaplanes (and many light aircraft) are extremely good for Aerial Photography especially in the Cessna 172 which they had. The reasons why planes and specifically the seaplane is so suited to this photography is:

1/ the plane glides and goes slower.

2/ there are less vibrations and air drag while window open than in a helicopter.

3/ Cost. Chartering a small plane is easily half that of a helicopter (a bonus when travelling on a budget).

4/ it's more fun landing and taking off on water! 

We booked it!

I had asked for a late afternoon slot as figured it would be the best light for the city shots, and will result in more interesting shadows along the coastline. Not going to lie I was nervous, I have no problems with flying but the plane was small, and I would be sticking my head most of the time out a window. The fear factor of the unknown of taking off (and landing) on water was somewhat on my mind also. Aaron went through all the safety directions, strapped us in and off we went. A few minutes of floating on the water, then within seconds we were in the air, surprisingly smooth, easy and comfortable. Up to altitude, level off and then open the window, done. Now to stick my head and camera out and fire off some shots, I have never held onto my camera so hard in my life. 

In theory the art of aerial photography is pretty easy, high ISO and a fast shutter speed, aim and press the button. In reality it's very different, for starters the wind hits you hard at first and pulls the camera around, add to the fact that as you are composing the shot the plane may drop on the wind so you find you miss it. In an ideal world I would have a gyro to steady the camera, this piece of equipment is also often used in helicopter photography. But I don't so; it's all a bit trial and error, shoot and hope.

Having a really clear idea of what one wants so can communicate with pilot is key, although for this time I was happy with everything Aaron suggested as my focus was the shoreline of San Francisco and the few times I asked to maneuver back around he did so.

I rapidly found that I preferred portraits over landscapes, due to height of buildings an angles shooting them at from the plane. Sadly a lot of my images were soft or out of focus, however largely the ones I wanted were spot on. Aerial photography is a hell of a challenge, and I defiantly learned a lot in one flight and what I would do different next time. I am not sure I would want to do a doors off helicopter, those guys have guts, the seaplane felt safe, I was able to make safe lens changes too which is notoriously tricky in a helicopter. The only real disadvantage of the plane from what I can tell is that it can't hover over a desired target, and in the case of a seaplane night photography isn't possible as the plane cannot land on water in the dark (understandably). 

I cannot recommend Seaplane Adventures enough; it was a thoroughly professional and a wonderful experience. Aaron also provided a superb, comprehensive commentary over every site/landscape we flew over, although with my head mostly out the window I missed most of it! Even if you don't want to charter and just want to do a site seeing tour, this is the company for you. It's unique, great fun and for your dollar/pound, a worth every penny/cent.

As for the landing on water........ you will have to go to find out.